For the Love of Leadville

June 15, 2022

Tom and I are great “around the bend-ers”, meaning we’re always saying to each other: “Let’s just see what’s around that bend…”  Which is probably why we have not been able to stay long in one place, as originally planned.  A mixture of curiosity and compulsive restlessness keeps pushing us on down the road.  There is so much to see, so little time, and only so much energy.

Our last morning in Breckenridge, we decided to walk the downtown area and explore the river a bit.  It was classic “well, let’s just go up the bridge…” and “let’s go to that bend as see what’s around the corner…”  A mixture of public and private places, the river added to the general ambience and appeal of this valley.

On our way back to the car, we decided to check out Daylight Donuts, a franchise we had seen in other towns, but often permanently closed (by COVID).  This one was doing a lively business, and Tom, who always wears his Hokie/VT hat, heard the call: “Go Hokies!”  We turned around and met a couple from Blacksburg.  He was 1960 graduate, and they now split their time between homes in Breckenridge and Blacksburg.  We discussed the state of the VT football program and the enchantment of the Breckenridge valley —  “even when you can no longer ski.”  We always get a kick out of meeting Hokies on the road.

We decided to leave by another scenic route, thus avoiding I70 to the north.  My brother had recommended SR 82 across Independence Pass, going east to west.  It would take us through Aspen before depositing us in Glenwood Springs.  We weren’t getting very far west, but it was time to do laundry.

First, we took the scenic SR 91 to Leadville – one of my favorite places.  I’m not sure why – except that it’s located in the middle of a valley at 10,000’, and surrounded by mountain peaks.  And it’s named Leadville – you’ve got to love that. 

Progress has come to Leadville since our initial visit several years ago, when a college graduation brought us to Golden.  The little western downtown has begun to revive with businesses, and they are now building homes and condos just outside of town.  I hope they can hold on to their unpretentious, frontier flavor.  No Walmart yet, thank God.

As we continued out of town, you’ll never guess what we found:  the headwaters of the Arkansas River, hidden in the ranchlands similar to what we saw earlier in the trip, but just a bit different. No lack of beauty.

As we turned north on SR 82 to Aspen, we began ascending again (yes, even from 10,000’), and here are just a few of the wonderous things we saw:

Twin Lakes (a place)                   Waterfalls                Alpine Lakes                 

Avalanche fields                         Rock falls                 Wildflowers

We were winding and twisting our way up into the heart of the mountain peaks, views on every side, no guardrails.  When we reached Independence Pass, at 12,100’ the highest US pass over the Continental Divide, we stopped at the clearly marked pull-off, and walked the 2-300 yards to take in the view.  I thought: “So this is what it’s like to be at the top of a mountain.”  Cold. Windy. Magnificent.  And studded with tiny wildflowers among the snowcaps.  Fortunately, we did not have to kill ourselves to see it.

We wound back down the mountain through sections free of double yellow lines because the road was so narrow.  We saw (insane) cyclists on road bikes, huffing and puffing their way up the grade.  At mile marker 50, the opposite side of the road was lit up with fire, rescue, sheriff and ambulance.  We have no idea what may have happened, except that at the bottom of the grade, Aspen police had blocked off access to SR 82 South, and were turning people back.  SR 82 is a favorite, but only open a few months a year.

Aspen is a very pretty place, but it does not compare favorably to Breckenridge.  It sits tucked up closer to its green mountains and is graced by more shady hardwood trees – but it lacks a friendly vibe, and is monstrously expensive.  Whereas Breckenridge charged $0.50/hour for on-street parking, Aspen started at $4/hour and ramped up from there. We paid over $7 for 75 minutes during “prime time” lunch hours.  Our sandwiches cost over $34, no drinks, no sides.  Need I say more?