May 23, 2019
As it turned out, on the morning of the 23rd the beautiful mountains vanished… and we were wet, cold and socked in with mist and fog. So we suppressed our disappointment and hit the road in an early start. But driving initially was in pea soup and slow going on route 160 W. Then, high enough in elevation, we shook free of the gloom and broke into sun and clarity as we entered the dry San Luis Valley – which is rimmed on all sides by mountains. The peaks to the north were most visible – you could see the snow blowing off their summits, as if they were steaming snow. One particularly aggressive cloud slid through a sheltered pass, evaporating as quickly as it advanced.
We arrived at the Great Sand Dunes NP with the wind literally shaking our two ton SUV. We geared up and ventured out but the wind was so fierce that I could not walk in a straight line. Most people approach the dunes in bare feet because the first 20-30 yards is ankle deep water. Tom and I looked at each other. I was wearing five layers, including hiking boots and my only pair of thick socks. We braced, shot a couple of photos, and made a bee-line (as closely as possible) back to the car.
As we aimed for Durango, the highway became swallowed up in, of all things, a sandstorm. Great gales of sand and soil assaulted the car. But once we traversed the San Luis Valley, we plunged back into clouds and gloom and occasional snow.
Crossing Wolf Creek Pass at nearly 11,000 feet, we made our way into Pagosa Springs for lunch. What a neat little town. Its main street reminded me very much of Cambria, CA. The rain eventually stopped before we reached Durango, where sun ruled. We located a walking trail adjacent to the Anima River which meanders through the pretty little town. Halfway through, showers overcame us and despite an umbrella, I froze in the breezy wet.
Next time we are in Durango, we will stay awhile and partake of all there is to see and do from Ridgeway to Pagosa Springs, including Ouray and Silverton.
Tomorrow we take the long way to Page, AZ.
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